{"id":8569,"date":"2017-09-10T18:45:20","date_gmt":"2017-09-10T16:45:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/?p=8569"},"modified":"2019-07-31T17:56:16","modified_gmt":"2019-07-31T15:56:16","slug":"supermarine-spitfire-mk-vb-tamiya-148-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/?p=8569","title":{"rendered":"Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Vb, TAMIYA, 1\/48"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"icon-1\"
\nSpitfire Mk.Vb<\/span><\/h1>\n

by\u00a0Marcel Meres<\/p>\n

\"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

1. Introductory Notes<\/span><\/h2>\n

This TAMIYA\u00a0kit basically served as some kind of a test platform to me. I wanted\u00a0to try out the worn\/chipping method using a common chipping fluid with Mr. Color C paints – so not in combination with the water soluble paints for which this process is broadly exerted and known\u00a0as suitable. As you can read later, the “C” combination worked surprisingly well too.<\/p>\n

\"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

2. Construction<\/span><\/h2>\n

You would surely agree the\u00a0TAMIYA Spitfire\u00a0is\u00a0a well-known kit. It was described many\u00a0times\u00a0 as a pleasantly\u00a0simple, well buildable, relatively cheap and – excusing\u00a0some minor\u00a0shape inaccuracies (typical for some older planes from this producer) – a kit looking\u00a0 like a Spitfire. Essentially I agree with it too. And as I always want to enhance something by adding some details – thus again, several after-market sets were added plus my own add-ons. Here is what was made:<\/p>\n

3. Improvements made<\/span><\/h2>\n

A) Exterior details<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Original exhausts were replaced by those from Quickboost set.<\/li>\n
  2. Brass\u00a0metal Hispano 20mm cannons by\u00a0Master were used.<\/li>\n
  3. Main wheels and pilot access door were replaced by resin ones\u00a0from Ultracast.<\/li>\n
  4. Rear mirror and some more photoetched Eduard parts were added.<\/li>\n
  5. Main undercarriage brake tubing was made of a thin lead wire.<\/li>\n
  6. Tubes and struts were added inside the oil-cooler outlet.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    \"Spitfire<\/a><\/h2>\n

    B) Cockpit details<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \n
    1. Ultracast pilot’s seat was used.<\/li>\n
    2. Wiring and tubing were made\u00a0of a thin lead wire and glued on.<\/li>\n
    3. Some interior parts from the Eduard photoetch set were used.<\/li>\n
    4. HGW laser cut\u00a0seatbelts\u00a0were assembled and integrated.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      \"Spitfire<\/a><\/h2>\n

      4. Colors, Painting and\u00a0Decals<\/span><\/h2>\n

      My\u00a0Spitfire represents the machine BM344 named\u00a0Phyl Marie<\/span><\/strong>. It was flown by Syd Ford, the Squadron Leader of the 403 (Canadian) Squadron, Manston during August 1942. BM344 provided air cover to the ill-fated Dieppe raid (Operation Jubilee) on 19 August 1942. For my\u00a0Phyl Marie<\/span><\/strong> the Aero Master decals\u00a0#48-682 were used while the large KH \u25cf P letters were airbrushed.<\/p>\n

      \"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

      BM344 wore the standard Post-Battle of Britain <\/em>camouflage scheme of\u00a0 Dk. Green \/ Ocean Gray \/ Med. Sea Gray colors. It is represented here by Mr. Color CS652 RAF color set. Heavy lightened Mr. Color 26 Duck Egg Green was used for the spinner, the fuselage bar and the KH \u25cf P code lettering.<\/p>\n

      \"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

      Both the fuselage bar and the code lettering were\u00a0sprayed on a white base, prior to the camo colors application. They were masked using home-made masks. The masks were drawn\u00a0as vector curves\u00a0according to the pre-scanned Aero Master decal sheet. Drawings were then sent as PDF file to a signmaking studio to let them cut out masks from an adhesive foil.<\/p>\n

      \"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

      Both masks for the wing leading edge yellow bars were cut by hand. I draw the mask shape directly onto the pre-scanned TAMIYA painting guide, then printed it – the\u00a0painting guide in 1:1 scale is attached to the kit instructions by the way. The yellow bars were then masked-out and airbrushed.\u00a0 A simple way to make such masks can be seen on the following picture:<\/p>\n

      \"Masking<\/a>Red tapes covering the wing gun openings and the gun camera window are decals.\u00a0They were cut-out from the original TAMIYA leading edge bar decal and trimmed\u00a0into\u00a0the narrower stripes. I tried to simulate the effect of multiple tapes applied overlapping\u00a0 each other:<\/p>\n

      \"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

      5. Weathering and Patina<\/span><\/h2>\n

      Many Mk.V Spitfires used to serve a long time enough to be heavily weathered. As I have not seen any photograph of Phyl Marie<\/span><\/strong> depicting her from above I was able to use only my own feeling, estimation – and the help of WWII era photographs as well.<\/p>\n

      The color chipping process
      \n<\/span><\/strong>Now I’d describe the chipping process mentioned above. Firstly the kit got the base coat of Mr. Surfacer and then the Mr. Color 8 Silver coat onto it. Then multiple thin coats of the chipping fluid were applied to all places where I wished\u00a0the chipping effect to appear – mainly the upper wing root surfaces and the fuselage sides close to the cockpit.<\/p>\n

      \"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

      As the camo colors on top were the “C” type as was the underlying silver, I was afraid that the solvent may somehow come through the chipping agent (laying in between them) binding them firmly together with no possibility of chipping. Trying to prevent that I doubled the number of chipping fluid coats recommended (from 3 to 6). And it paid off. With a help of some water the top-lying “C” camo colors came\u00a0off relatively well. The final result can be seen on attached photographs.<\/p>\n

      Please note:<\/span><\/strong>\u00a0the tiniest scratches visible all over the plane surfaces were made by a sharp needle tip with no water.<\/p>\n

      \"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

      The rest of the weathering was made as usual. Some very subtle pre-shading spots\u00a0were sprayed with a very dark gray color.\u00a0Every camo\u00a0color was\u00a0sprayed free hand and in multiple\u00a0delicate\u00a0layers rather than a single coat. I started spraying with a heavily lightened color. Every camo color was\u00a0gradually\u00a0built up using\u00a0darker and darker shades. I started unevenly alongside the panel lines, then came the rest. Small\u00a0spots, lines and faint mottles were added\u00a0during the process. The final goal was\u00a0to simulate\u00a0an unequal, weathered\u00a0surface with a fade-out effect.<\/p>\n

      \"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

      The exhaust and gun stains were airbrushed with a very dark brown shades. Then the whole kit got the Mr. Color Super Clear gloss coat as the base for thr decalling process. The decals were sealed the same way – with another gloss coat. This second one also\u00a0served as a base\u00a0coat for weathering mix made of Burnt Sienna (brown) and Payne\u2019s Gray oil colors mixed together and diluted in mig\u2019s Thinner for washes.<\/p>\n

      \"Spitfire<\/a><\/p>\n

      The mix was then applied\u00a0by a thin soft brush to simulate multiple kinds of dirt\/stains. After the wash mix dried out\u00a0thoroughly the whole kit\u00a0was sealed with\u00a0transparent laquer again. This time it was matt.<\/p>\n

      6. Final notes<\/span><\/h2>\n

      Since the testing of a chipping process with “C” colors turned out well I am planning to try out the mig’s Heavy Chipping Effects fluid as my next try (with “C” colors again). Another candidate would be the common hairspray which is much more cheaper \ud83d\ude00 .<\/p>\n

      For more finished model-kits please see the\u00a0Built Kits<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0category.\u00a0If you enjoyed this post, I\u2019d be very grateful if you\u2019d help it spread by\u00a0sharing it on Facebook.<\/strong><\/p>\n

      Model, Images and Text Copyright \u00a9 2017 by Marcel Meres.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      Spitfire Mk.Vb by\u00a0Marcel Meres<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,22,3],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3opQF-2ed","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8569"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=8569"}],"version-history":[{"count":54,"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8569\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9718,"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8569\/revisions\/9718"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=8569"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=8569"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/modeltalking.hobbyart.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=8569"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}